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Tailoring

The importance of tailoring lies in the measurements of the individuals requesting a suitable outfit. Measurements allow the tailor to focus on properly forming the clothes around the client. Fitted clothing better allows for the client to appear the best: hiding unwanted features and accenting desirable ones. Even men benefit from tailored suits, as the masculinity of the wearer can be drawn out through shoulder fitting and length of shirts and coats.

There are many things for a tailor to be aware of when creating a piece of clothing. Take trousers for example. There is a tendency for cloth to gather together in 'runs'. This is most common in fused apparel and shrinkage of material, or even earlier distress to the fabric. Untrained hands that hold too much tension in the thread when sewing the piecework together often create this fault.

Taking proper measurements ensures the clients satisfaction and the creation of a perfect fitted garment. For example, when one measures for a shirt there are certain specifics that have to be kept in mind to create the right fit. The shirt's seams should meet at the shoulder, while the tailor's forefinger should be able to fit between the collar and neck of the individual being measured. Trousers are easy to gauge for proper fit. The pants should be worn without shoes and should touch the floor. With the shoes to be worn with the pants on, the fabric should barely touch the floor.

It is important to have knowledge of relevant fabrics and embroidery when one considers tailoring perusal. It would not be proper to take the softer sisal fabric and cut it in the same manner one would cut the sturdier flax or cotton. If a cut is misdirected and shortens the measurement, the fitting of the fabrics for sewing will be compromised and could potentially ruin a whole bolt of fabric. Proper cut determines efficiency and cost effectiveness.

The hardest fabric to work is the silk-like sisal, but it is also the highest in demand for Southern summers. The fashionable, breathable, fabric is best suited for draping clothes. Free flowing dresses and shirts allow for more air current to flow into the cloth and keep the wearer cooler.

The easiest, and most common, clothes are created from flax and cotton fabrics. It is still important to make sure the proper dye is used to color the fabrics correctly. One miscalculated dye can lead to a blotted appearance in the final creation of the clothing.

Overall, a good journeymen weaver is going to have good knowledge of proper fittings and fabric creations. Once those two details are mastered, there is more room for creativity of clothes design. It is here that the artistic part of the craft gives way to the meticulous creation of the proper outline of the weaving of clothes.

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Written by Journeyman Aleudre, SouCon MUSH