Fiber: Foundation of the Weaver's Craft

The foundation of many items made by the Weavercraft, fiber is a threadlike strand that may be long or short, coarse or pliable. One of its main characteristics is the ability to be spun into thread, yarn, or twine. Fiber sources include animal, vegetable, and inorganic substances. Animal fibers are protein-based, vegetable fibers are cellulose-based, and inorganic fibers are mineral-based. Inorganic fibers, like asbestos and silica, are more likely to be useful to the Smithcraft and not discussed herein.

There are many common animal fibers, such as feathers, fur, hair, silk, and wool. Feathers and protofeathers originate with avians and wherries, respectively. Fur is provided by both domestic and feral canines and felines. Hair is taken from bovines; draft, dray, and runnerbeasts; and porcines. Silk is produced by gossamer spinners and other insects; however, it is not found in large enough quantities to be a useful craft fiber. Wool, on the other hand, is the most abundant animal fiber; it is gathered from burdenbeasts, caprines, and ovines.

Vegetable fibers are gathered from the various parts of plants, including the stem, leaf, seed, and surface. Stem fibers are found between the outer skin (epidermis) and the woody core (xylem) of dicot stems. They are part of the system that circulates sap (phloem) and the basis of the stem's vertical strength. Combing separates stem fibers into individual strands of varying length. These fibers are also known as soft fibers due to their pliability. Leaf fibers are referred to as hard fibers because of their stiffness. They are located in parallel strands within the fleshy leaves of monocots, yet these fibers cannot be separated into individual filaments. Seed fibers are connected to the seed of a plant, and surface fibers are taken from a plant's exterior.

There are many properties to take into consideration when choosing either animal or vegetable fibers for craft purposes. Fibers are graded according to diameter, length, strength, cleanliness, and sometimes crimp and color. Diameter is arguably the most important factor, as finer fibers result in softer, costlier products. Length and strength have a direct influence on the ability to spin fibers into finer, more durable yarns. Cleanliness refers to the absence of dirt, grease, moisture, and refuse in processed fiber. Crimp in animal fibers contributes to the elasticity of yarn; the comparable property of twist in vegetable fibers produces smoother, stronger yarn when the fibers are spun in the direction of the twist. Color is a more subjective quality, but rarer natural colors obviously contribute to the beauty and price of the finished product.

One thing to keep in mind is that some fiber features are inherent while others are due to growing conditions and processing methods. For example, lignin in plants makes fibers stiff and strong. The high lignin content of leaf fibers is both normal and desirable. On the other hand, high lignin content in stem fibers is due to over-maturing and detrimental, as it makes the usually pliable strands brittle.

When grouped according to use, fibers fall into textile, cordage, brush, matting, filling, and plaiting categories. Textiles are fabric, or cloth, goods. Cordage is braided or twisted vegetable fiber; rope. Brush fibers are the bristles used in brooms and brushes. Matting includes processes such as felting and papermaking. Filling and plaiting fibers are used for exactly what their names depict: filling and plaiting.

To understand the ample fiber sources available, consider this short list of examples. Textiles are made from a wide variety of animal and vegetable fibers, the most popular of which are cotton, linen, sisal, and wool. Cordage and ropes are commonly made from abaca, coir, jute, and the guard hairs of burdenbeasts. Bovine, equine, and porcine hairs are often used for bristles, while the fibers of grasses and palms are used for brooms. Hairs and wool are used to make felt, and papyrus and wood pulp are employed in papermaking. Coir, grasses, milkweed, and runnerbeast hair are used for stuffing and filling. The flat strands of palms and yuccas are plaited to create baskets, hats, mats, and screens. Truly, the list of fibers and their products is endless, making them a fundamental part of the Weaver's craft.

 

References:

Written by Journeywoman Hanisaph, SouCon MUSH

  1. Buchanan, Rita. A weaver's garden. Loveland, CO: Interweave Press, 1987.
  2. Kurella, Elizabeth M. The complete guide to vintage textiles. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 1999.
  3. http://encarta.msn.com/
  4. http://www.natural-fibers-coalition.org/
  5. http://www.llamasofatlanta.com/

 

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